Just make sure the switch is the right way up. The plunger goes toward the bottom. Your switch will have two captive bolts, which go through the front/right holes, close to the frame tube.
Put the nuts and washers on but do NOT fully tighten yet. You can see the holes are actually slotted, this allows the switch to be moved up or down to make sure it is activated properly by your brake pedal.
With the switch in position, but not fully tightened, place your brake pedal on its pivot.
Swing the brake pedal upward by hand and ensure that when the forward peg on top of the brake pedal rests on the outrigger of the frame, that the smaller peg behind it is actually pushing in the plunger for the switching mechanism. If it is, tighten up the brake switch.
If it isn't, lower the switch in the slots and tighten.
If the switch plunger is fully compressed but the peg is still not hitting the frame, raise the switch. If you cannot get your switch to be activated AND have the peg resting to a stop on the frame, something is wrong and is usually the fault of cheap, imitation componenets. It is essential that the right parts are used here as your rear brake is all important.
When fitted correcltly, it should look like this when the footbrake pedal is at rest.
Bear in mind that when the rear brake switch plunger is compressed in, the rear light would be OFF. Releasing this plunger puts the light ON!
Push the rubber protective sleeve over the two sleeved wires coming from the loom, thin end first. Then push the two wires in to the rear of the switch and once secured, slip over the protective rubber sleeve to keep it all protected.
Insert either of the pink wires in to either of the two bullet connectors in the rear of the switch. It doesn't matter which way round either of them are. This is a simple, either on, or off mechanism.
Slide down the protective rubber cover.
1 comment:
Brilliant, thank you
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