Offer the pedal up to the floorboard at and angle thus...
...if it is tight in the hole, removing the pedal rubber can help, but once through it can be left to sit like this for now.
Put plenty of of copper grease on the footbrake stub.
Insert the rear brake return spring in to the hole in the frame. The lever part of the spring will be pointing upward.
Now put on the rear, lerger of the two washers.
Next, slip the pedal on to the stub and push home as far as possible.
Use a spring puller or cable tie in a loop to pull down the return spring leg until it is under the brake pedal.
Normally, the brake pedal can now be pushed right on to the stub, but if your spring is brand new, they can be very tight and prevent the pedal from seating all the way back. If this is the case, it may be necessary to compress the spring, which in effect, opens the centre hole and allows you to push the pedal right on to the stub until it is protruding out from the front edge.
I use stilsons to compress the spring upward and at the same time, tap the pedal home with a small hammer.
Now you can add the second, thin washer and your circlip. don't worry if there is no room for the second washer, sometimes it won't fit, so the circlip is added flush against the copper bush in the pedal hole.
Make certain the circlip is snug in the groove on the stub and that the pedasl stop is touching the frame. Also note that the switch is depressed by the block on the pedal. The switch is actuated by being released, rather than depressed.
Check that the adjuster, previously added in another post, is actually wound off as much as possible.
Insert the inner cable through the hole in the adjuster trunnion, pull on it with pliers and tighten the 14mm nut to secure it.
Only a minor adjustment should be required at the rear adjuster to ensure the brake activates correctly and the rear wheel spins when released.
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