Sunday 2 October 2011

Adding choke lever and carb choke mechanism

This job can be started at either end. For now, I will start with the carb side. Here you can see the order of the parts for the choke in the carb without the cable. The cable goes from left to right, through the adjuster and spring and in to the cutaway in the choke slide, which you can see in the pic below.

















Once assembled, it is simply turned down on to the carb.

















Here you can see the route of the cable over the frame, behind the toolbox.

















Here is our new choke lever mechanism.

















Here you can see it's component parts along with the clip to retain the cables.

















Notice that the threaded body of the choke lever has a slotted channel.

















The slot fits over the peg in the hole for the choke in the frame canopy.

















So the choke can only be fitted one way.

















Like this.

















Next, fit the wire (or plate on later models), which is used to retain the control cables later. (Sorry about the dust on the frame. It's gone now.)

















Fit by turning the wire clip under the metal tab on the frame of the scooter, which holds it in more or less the correct position.

















This is wrong. As fitted, our wire was behind the spark plug position and close to the frame. It should be forward of the plug, so a little gentle persuasion is required to get it to fit in the correct position.

















Like this.

















Now slip the choke cable through the choke cover like so...

















Fit the  roller end of the cable through the slot at the rear of the choke lever.

















Slide over the cover...

















Now, unfortunately, our inner cable is far too long as you can see. I assume this is because certain carbs fitted require a longer inner cable, but it is no use to me like this. So it will have to be corrected.

















So...

Ensure that the choke outer cable is flush tight with the choke lever as shown.

















Put the choke adjuster up to the outer cable, slide on the spring and hold the choke slide in place. You can see that I have marked the inner cable with a black dot to show where the nipple 'should' have been to fit properly.

















Cut the cable to the correct length.

















Dip the new end in flux.

















Add a blob of solder.

















Slot the new end in the choke slide to ensure a good fit.

















Now seat the outer cable, and push through the inner.

















Push on the spring and then the slide.

















and tighten down on to the carb where indicated.

















Now, I found it impossible to show the slide in place, but with the naked eye, you should be able to see the orange coloured, brass slide through this hole (see below). When the choke is OFF (in the upper position at the lever), you should be able to see the choke slide fully obscuring this hole from top to bottom.

Now, when you use the choke lever and turn it to it's lower position (ON), the slide should almost completely clear this hole. If it closes and clears properly, your cable is correct. If it does NOT fully obscure the hole, your cable is too short, turn the adjuster down. If it does not clear the aperture when operated, your cable is too long.

It's worth the messing about to get this right because the good running of your scooter depends on the choke operating properly.


















Normally, the choke slide does not lift high enough. If so, undo the locking nut and turn the adjuster anti clockwise to effectively lift the cable away from the carb. Turn the choke lever and keep looking by eye until the choke slide clears. Then tighten down the locking nut again.

















Ours required no adjustment to be just perfect.

Luck?

No comments: