Installing cables. Engine end only

It is now time to add the control cables etc at the engine end of the scooter only. For now, I will be adding the trunnions without paying attention to how long the inner cables need to be etc and this is only required later. The purpose of this stage is to be able to route the outer cables correctly.

THROTTLE CABLE

Your throttle cable may have no nipple on the end as some come with an adjustable nipple at either the top or bottom, depending upon the supplier. I prefer this type as shown as it is more closely related to the original one.

Slip the cable through your rubber raiser...

Push the rubber down the cable and slot the cable under the canopy lip as indicated below.

Push the inner cable through the throttle adjuster on the carb...

And through the slot in the throttle cab lever.

You may wish to test the lever works by pulling on the inner cable at the other end.

This is where the rubber lifter is fitted and it can now be held in position with an aluminium cable tie. The tie only holds down the throttle cable at this position and nothing else.

The throttle cable passes over the top of the frame, roughly as shown. We will tidy this up later when the forks and headset are fitted, so it isn't important right now to get it exactly right.

Tape it in roughly this position at the headset for now.

GEAR CHANGE CABLES

Two trunnions are required to secure the gear cables. Note that one is longer than the other. This is because the larger one also passes through the gear change link arm from the engine and thus, needs to be deeper.

Pass a gear change cable under the lip of the frame canopy and through the cable clip as shown...

Push the outer cable in to the adjuster at the rear (inside) of the adjuster block as shown below. This cable will now operate FIRST and NEUTRAL gears.

Select the longer trunnion and undo the allen key bolt to allow access through the hole shown.

Place the trunnion in to the adjuster and the gear selector arm as shown. Make sure that the hole in the trunnion is pointing at the cable.

Now pass the inner cable through the trunnion...

And ONLY nip up the bolt enough just to hold the cable in place.

Repeat the stages above with the gear cable nearest to you on the kickstart side (offside) of the scooter. This will now be the cable for selecting NEUTRAL, SECOND, THIRD & FOURTH GEAR.

Make sure the cables are routed as shown.

CLUTCH CABLE

Repeat steps as above and pass through the uppermost adjuster in the adjuster block as shown here...

Pull the clutch lever forward by hand and insert and nip on a trunnion. Feed the outer back as previously indicated and tape them up at the headset just to hold them out of the way for now. We will complete the routing and fastening them down later, when the headset is on.

REAR BRAKE CABLE

Here are the component parts at the rear of the scooter. Not the two 'top hat' retaining cups.

The first top hat goes in to the hole at the rear of the frame. Sorry for the blurred photograph. I think it can just about be used as reference.

Feed the cable forward behind the engine mount and in to the clip on the engine...

...which you should find fixed under the cable control adjuster block at the rear (inside) of the engine block.

Push the inner cable in to the top hat at the rear of the scooter

Pull the inner cable through and make a bend on the end like so...

Push your bolt through the adjuster cover and on to the inner cable as shown.

Notice that the adjuster boy half of the rear adjuster is sided. This cutaway section goes upward as shown.

Fit the cover, with cable and bolt, on to the adjuster.

Tighten with the nut and flat washer. You can tighten as much as you like. The cable needs to be as secure as possible.

Fit the second top hat in the lug just to the front of the frame canopy where shown.

Feed the outer cable through the cable clip as show (I have removed the control cables so you can see), through the frame canopy and in to the top hat.

All the cables sit in this clip as shown.

That will do for now. We will attach the other end of the brake cable once the legshields are on.

Adding petrol tap and lever

Here is our new, fast flow type petrol tap.

Notice that the large nut is placed only just on to the threads, which are the opposite of the threads on the bottom of the tank. So as you tighten on to the carb, it is also tightening on to the tank.

Place over the tank threads with the actuating arm pointing in, toward the frame and behind the carb throttle mechanism. Nip up the fastening nut but do NOT tighten fully yet.

Pop the anti vibration rubber gasket tube for the petrol lever in to the frame.

Like this...

Now insert the petrol lever and insert the flat tab in to the brass universal joint on the tap.

The arm of the tap can be moved closer, or further away from the frame to ensure the petrol lever is close to the body of the scooter, like this.

Once you are happy, tighten the tap to the tank fully.

Adding choke lever and carb choke mechanism

This job can be started at either end. For now, I will start with the carb side. Here you can see the order of the parts for the choke in the carb without the cable. The cable goes from left to right, through the adjuster and spring and in to the cutaway in the choke slide, which you can see in the pic below.

Once assembled, it is simply turned down on to the carb.

Here you can see the route of the cable over the frame, behind the toolbox.

Here is our new choke lever mechanism.

Here you can see it's component parts along with the clip to retain the cables.

Notice that the threaded body of the choke lever has a slotted channel.

The slot fits over the peg in the hole for the choke in the frame canopy.

So the choke can only be fitted one way.

Like this.

Next, fit the wire (or plate on later models), which is used to retain the control cables later. (Sorry about the dust on the frame. It's gone now.)

Fit by turning the wire clip under the metal tab on the frame of the scooter, which holds it in more or less the correct position.

This is wrong. As fitted, our wire was behind the spark plug position and close to the frame. It should be forward of the plug, so a little gentle persuasion is required to get it to fit in the correct position.

Like this.

Now slip the choke cable through the choke cover like so...

Fit the  roller end of the cable through the slot at the rear of the choke lever.

Slide over the cover...

Now, unfortunately, our inner cable is far too long as you can see. I assume this is because certain carbs fitted require a longer inner cable, but it is no use to me like this. So it will have to be corrected.

So...

Ensure that the choke outer cable is flush tight with the choke lever as shown.

Put the choke adjuster up to the outer cable, slide on the spring and hold the choke slide in place. You can see that I have marked the inner cable with a black dot to show where the nipple 'should' have been to fit properly.

Cut the cable to the correct length.

Dip the new end in flux.

Add a blob of solder.

Slot the new end in the choke slide to ensure a good fit.

Now seat the outer cable, and push through the inner.

Push on the spring and then the slide.

and tighten down on to the carb where indicated.

Now, I found it impossible to show the slide in place, but with the naked eye, you should be able to see the orange coloured, brass slide through this hole (see below). When the choke is OFF (in the upper position at the lever), you should be able to see the choke slide fully obscuring this hole from top to bottom.

Now, when you use the choke lever and turn it to it's lower position (ON), the slide should almost completely clear this hole. If it closes and clears properly, your cable is correct. If it does NOT fully obscure the hole, your cable is too short, turn the adjuster down. If it does not clear the aperture when operated, your cable is too long.

It's worth the messing about to get this right because the good running of your scooter depends on the choke operating properly.

Normally, the choke slide does not lift high enough. If so, undo the locking nut and turn the adjuster anti clockwise to effectively lift the cable away from the carb. Turn the choke lever and keep looking by eye until the choke slide clears. Then tighten down the locking nut again.

Ours required no adjustment to be just perfect.

Luck?

re-fitting side-panel frame clip

This is the clip that fits at the rear of the frame on to which the side panel handle rollers go to secure the panels in use. There is the clip itself, two brackets, two 20mm bolts and two 27mm bolts. The longer two go at the bottom of the bracket and allow you to add a mud flap if required.

The clip MUST go under this tab if it is present on your machine.

Fit the two brackets as shown by attaching the two shorter bolts to the two upper holes loosely. Do not tighten yet.

Position the clip and insert the two, longer, lower bolts. Over these goes your mud flap if required. Note that inside the two holes in the upper portion of the mudflap, there should be two strengthening bushes on to which the nuts are tightened to prevent the rubber from squashing.

When tightened, it should look like this. There are rubber gaskets which can now be purchased that fit under the clip and brackets etc. Although not standard, it is a nice addition which prevents any damage to your scooter frame from scratches and keeps vibration down. Worth considering.

Make sure the clip is definitely located under the upper retaining clip.

And the bolt heads are flush at the rear. I couldn't find the correct headed bolts for the two lower fittings as you can see, but these will be changed when I get a pair.