I have done a very small amount of work to the scooter since the last update, but nothing of significance.
The main problem, is that there are still several parts promised from suppliers that have not yet arrived at Armandos and therefor, they are not available to me. So whilst it would be possible to carry on doing other jobs, the project would be out of sequence, so i'm not.
Hopefully, next weekend, everything will have landed and we can really press on.
That's restoration work for you.
Paul
Sunday 25 September 2011
Sunday 18 September 2011
Adding carburettor
Fitting the carb is simple. But to make life easier if you need to get it off again, just note the position of the ring collar. In the pic below, it is positioned at the rear of the carb.
Here you can see the locking bolt used to tighten it up. Push the nylon lined liner on to the carb manifold already attached to the engine as far as it will go. A few taps with a rubber mallet on the front of the carb will ensure it is seated correctly.
Turn the nut to around 10 O'clock and tighten using a short, flat blade screwdriverjust to nip it in position. Now tighten with an 8mm spanner to finish, ensuring that the position of the carb is upright and vertical to the road.
This image shows how easy access should be to the ring collar holding the carb in place. There is no need to apply excess pressure when tightening this collar as it will get tighter during normal running conditions as the heat makes the alloy neck and manifold swell.
Correct alignment shown.
Adding panel rubbers
Another easy job with just a couple of points worth mentioning.
I have always found it easier to put the rubbers in a bowl of boiling water for a few minutes to make them soften. This makes them considerably easier to put on, as with most of therubbers on a scooter AND it helps them to conform to the shape of the frame lip so that when dry, they cling better to the shape.
Look at the end of the rubber strip and notice it goes on only one way. The cutaway in the rubber itself is the same shape of the frame lip it sits into.
Start at the front of the scooter and work your way to the rear, pressing the rubber in to the lip as you go and working quickly so the rubber remains soft and flexible. Make sure you do NOT stretch the rubber as it will shrink back a little when dried and cool. If it does this, you will be left with an unwanted gap at the front and rear.
Once it has cooled, cut off any excess "just" above the end of the panel lip so that the rubber is not curled under by the curve of the side panel at the rear when fitted. The cut off should be parallel to the ground.
It's a good idea to fit the panel rubbers at this time so that when working on the scooter, your clothing or tools don't accidentally catch the edges of the frame and cause damage.
Another nice and simple job done.
I have always found it easier to put the rubbers in a bowl of boiling water for a few minutes to make them soften. This makes them considerably easier to put on, as with most of therubbers on a scooter AND it helps them to conform to the shape of the frame lip so that when dry, they cling better to the shape.
Look at the end of the rubber strip and notice it goes on only one way. The cutaway in the rubber itself is the same shape of the frame lip it sits into.
Start at the front of the scooter and work your way to the rear, pressing the rubber in to the lip as you go and working quickly so the rubber remains soft and flexible. Make sure you do NOT stretch the rubber as it will shrink back a little when dried and cool. If it does this, you will be left with an unwanted gap at the front and rear.
Once it has cooled, cut off any excess "just" above the end of the panel lip so that the rubber is not curled under by the curve of the side panel at the rear when fitted. The cut off should be parallel to the ground.
It's a good idea to fit the panel rubbers at this time so that when working on the scooter, your clothing or tools don't accidentally catch the edges of the frame and cause damage.
Another nice and simple job done.
Install rear shock absorber
Make sure that the lug for mounting the rear shock at the top of the frame is clean and smooth. Ours still has tape applied which was used to protect it and the threards whilst it was being painted. Scrape this away and then use grit paper to finigh before cleaning.
Use a little grease on both the fraem lug and engine lug to ensure the shocker rotates properly when in use. Normal Grease is usually fine but I am using copper grease, which in my opinion, for applications like this, is far better and lasts a great deal longer than ordinary grease.
Get help to lift the frame so that the uncompressed shocker can be slipped over the lugs. Notice which way up the shock absorber is fitted. I can't count the times I've seen them fitted upside down.
The nuts required to tighten the shocker are spcifically for the job and two wavy washers are also required.
There is no torque setting for these nuts but they do need to be nice and tight without the need for using extra leverage or hitting them with a drift hammer to get extra grip.
Once installed, make sure you check behind the shocker to ensure it is NOT rubbing against the rear mudguard. Mudguards can go a little mis-shapen when blasted or painted and can bow a little when being installed. This will cause it to catch on the shocker and that is something you don't want on your shiny new parts.
If it does, you should be able to bend it in a little by hand. until there is sufficient clearance.
Job done!
Use a little grease on both the fraem lug and engine lug to ensure the shocker rotates properly when in use. Normal Grease is usually fine but I am using copper grease, which in my opinion, for applications like this, is far better and lasts a great deal longer than ordinary grease.
Get help to lift the frame so that the uncompressed shocker can be slipped over the lugs. Notice which way up the shock absorber is fitted. I can't count the times I've seen them fitted upside down.
The nuts required to tighten the shocker are spcifically for the job and two wavy washers are also required.
There is no torque setting for these nuts but they do need to be nice and tight without the need for using extra leverage or hitting them with a drift hammer to get extra grip.
Once installed, make sure you check behind the shocker to ensure it is NOT rubbing against the rear mudguard. Mudguards can go a little mis-shapen when blasted or painted and can bow a little when being installed. This will cause it to catch on the shocker and that is something you don't want on your shiny new parts.
If it does, you should be able to bend it in a little by hand. until there is sufficient clearance.
Job done!
Install engine to frame
This is a pretty straightforward job, however on this occasion, it is made a little more tricky simply because of the fact I am still waiting for the wheel rims to come back. So for now, we will install the engine without the rear wheel and put that on later.
Make sure all your cables are tidied out of the way so they don't foul whilst you are working and lay the engine under the frame. Although you can do this alone, another pair of hands really helps to get everything lined up.
Put the engine cones (1 pair) in to each side of the frames engine mount tube. Do not use grease on this point as the engine bolt is NOT supposed to rotate as the engine pivots in the frasme during normal use. The pivoting of the engine is allowed by the rubber inserts in the silent blocks that are pressed in to the engine mount brackets. There are different types of engine mount cones, so make sure yours are correct for your model. Notice the split in the cone. This goes upward at 12 o'clock.
Both cones, once inserted should be flush with the frame tube. To tighten the main engine bolt, you will require two 24mm nuts and two wavey washers. The original nuts were not nyloc. The ones I am using are nylocs, which are far better than original for this purpose and are unlikely to ever work loose.
With a helping hand, get the frame mounts on the engine lined up with the frame tube and push through the engine bolt. You should be able to do this by hand. If you need to hammer the engine bolt through, something is wrong or not lined up properly. When it is through, place a wavey washer and nut on each side.
Finger tighten the nuts so they are equal on both sides.
Then simply tighten one or the other, or both until tight, check they are evenly on the bolt and when satisfied, tighten to finish.
Make sure all your cables are tidied out of the way so they don't foul whilst you are working and lay the engine under the frame. Although you can do this alone, another pair of hands really helps to get everything lined up.
Put the engine cones (1 pair) in to each side of the frames engine mount tube. Do not use grease on this point as the engine bolt is NOT supposed to rotate as the engine pivots in the frasme during normal use. The pivoting of the engine is allowed by the rubber inserts in the silent blocks that are pressed in to the engine mount brackets. There are different types of engine mount cones, so make sure yours are correct for your model. Notice the split in the cone. This goes upward at 12 o'clock.
Both cones, once inserted should be flush with the frame tube. To tighten the main engine bolt, you will require two 24mm nuts and two wavey washers. The original nuts were not nyloc. The ones I am using are nylocs, which are far better than original for this purpose and are unlikely to ever work loose.
With a helping hand, get the frame mounts on the engine lined up with the frame tube and push through the engine bolt. You should be able to do this by hand. If you need to hammer the engine bolt through, something is wrong or not lined up properly. When it is through, place a wavey washer and nut on each side.
Finger tighten the nuts so they are equal on both sides.
Then simply tighten one or the other, or both until tight, check they are evenly on the bolt and when satisfied, tighten to finish.
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